panasonic lumix camera leica lens image
baaark
I have a Panasonic Lumix. It's a great non-SLR (has a built in Leica lens with 12x zoom), but its missing some things. I want to shoot in raw mode, and also would like to get something with rear curtain flash, fill flash, interchangeable lenses, and stuff of that sort. In other words, I want a digital SLR, but I don't know what kind.
So, would be a good idea to buy a brand new low end model, like an Olympus E-500 or Nikon D-40, or a last generation top of the line, like an old Nikon D1-H, or Fujifilm S1?
I am learning photography, but want to someday be very good at it (as in possibly even professionally good). I don't want a camera that will hold me and my creativity back.
Also, I don't think megapixels are a huge deal, as long as I can get at least 1600-1200 photos. I mostly do online stuff, and would only usually go for a 5x7 if I printed anything out. This would be for learning purposes only.
Thank you beforehand for all the great answers. 8*)
I would also like a camera that can shoot up to 1600 ISO...
Answer
A Nikon D40 would be a great start for you. The price difference between the D40 and the D40x or some competing cameras could buy you lenses to expand the possibilities. Then, you can use those lenses in the future, if/when you upgrade camera bodies!
A D1-H is good, but digital cameras have evolved so much in the last few years.
Here's one trusted viewpoint for you.
http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/d40.htm
A Nikon D40 would be a great start for you. The price difference between the D40 and the D40x or some competing cameras could buy you lenses to expand the possibilities. Then, you can use those lenses in the future, if/when you upgrade camera bodies!
A D1-H is good, but digital cameras have evolved so much in the last few years.
Here's one trusted viewpoint for you.
http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/d40.htm
How can I make a picture taken with a bad camera look better in photoshop?
LetsGo
All I have got is: reduce noise, increase contrast, vibrance, clarity,.....
Anything else? Is there a systematic way.
I have a picture that is absolutely priceless (at least in my opinion) but it was taken with the extended part of a zoom lens of a panasonic lumix .... (not the dslr, but at least it has the leica lens).
Hi David!
In my opinion, the lumix produces very good pictures and in optimum light conditions and for most practical purposes, one cannot tell whether the picture was taken with the lumix or a better camera. I have sold a few pictures from my lumix on microstock sites and and the most popular pictures have sold hundreds of times.
This particular picture was taken when the zoom was out all the way, and then I had to crop the picture a little bit. So we are really talking about the upper limits of the camera´s capabilities.
Actually, I have never used macros with photoshop.... nice idea!
When I have done the best I think I can manage with the picture, I will put it online but if anyone wants to see it, could you send a private message so I can send the link.
Answer
I never saw a Lumix camera that anyone could call "bad" - but of course, they have their limitations: but what you can achieve depends on what you want to correct or improve.
If the "extended" part of the zoom meant using digital zoom, the steps you have mentioned are appropriate, but the camera will already have done each of these things to produce the image you have, and any step you take will probably damage the picture - distorting and destroying pixels.
Many of the pixels you "enhance" this way did not exist in the scene, but were added by the camera's on board computer, "guessing" at the most likely colour, density, etc based on the nearest true pixels. Enhancing these will further distort the image.
In fact, the chance of making matters worse is one reason you should only ever work on a copy of the photo, never on the original, and when possible, apply whatever you try to a layer that can be undone or removed.
If the photo was not taken using digital zoom, you are in a better situation. The basic steps are:
1 remove noise: a dedicated filter is better than the native photoshop one (try Noise Ninja or Topaz DeNoise) - any subsequent steps applied before you deal with noise will make the picture worse;
2 fix the density - if the image is dark, try boosting exposure/brightness or fill flash, then add contrast. If it is too light again, try exposure, fix the white point and black point; then use levels to attend independently but interactively to the highlights, mid tones and shadows.
3 correct the contrast if necessary
4 Clarity might help at this stage (but may do more damage!)
5 cautious sharpening is the last step: use high-pass sharpening rather than unsharp mask.
I never saw a Lumix camera that anyone could call "bad" - but of course, they have their limitations: but what you can achieve depends on what you want to correct or improve.
If the "extended" part of the zoom meant using digital zoom, the steps you have mentioned are appropriate, but the camera will already have done each of these things to produce the image you have, and any step you take will probably damage the picture - distorting and destroying pixels.
Many of the pixels you "enhance" this way did not exist in the scene, but were added by the camera's on board computer, "guessing" at the most likely colour, density, etc based on the nearest true pixels. Enhancing these will further distort the image.
In fact, the chance of making matters worse is one reason you should only ever work on a copy of the photo, never on the original, and when possible, apply whatever you try to a layer that can be undone or removed.
If the photo was not taken using digital zoom, you are in a better situation. The basic steps are:
1 remove noise: a dedicated filter is better than the native photoshop one (try Noise Ninja or Topaz DeNoise) - any subsequent steps applied before you deal with noise will make the picture worse;
2 fix the density - if the image is dark, try boosting exposure/brightness or fill flash, then add contrast. If it is too light again, try exposure, fix the white point and black point; then use levels to attend independently but interactively to the highlights, mid tones and shadows.
3 correct the contrast if necessary
4 Clarity might help at this stage (but may do more damage!)
5 cautious sharpening is the last step: use high-pass sharpening rather than unsharp mask.
Powered by Yahoo! Answers
Tidak ada komentar:
Posting Komentar