nikon camera lense guide image
chescakes
Well, I've been dying to get a DSLR camera but then I know my dad won't buy me that so I decided to save money for it so I was wondering how much would it cost me to get a great camera at a super low price... Please help me with the brands and its prices and i'm also thinking of second hands too. Please help me, I'm desperate :(( Do you know any outlets in LA? and lenses, are there outlets that sells the camera together with the lense?
Answer
I would get the Nikon D3000 kit with 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G AF-S DX VR Nikkor Zoom Lens is probably the best value and the most bang for the buck DSLR from Nikon or in fact any other manufacturer. The D3000 is a easy camera for a beginner to learn and use (has a nice guide feature), not to mention it just came out on the market so it will hold its resale value pretty well. Also, the D3000 kit lens has (VR) vibration reduction technology, thus making the D3000 an even better value. Take a look at the first link below for a great review of this camera and take a look at the second link for the best price ($509.00 with free shipping) I could find for the D3000 with 18-55mm VR lens.
The Nikon D40 which is better than the D60 or D40x, (in the process of being discontinued because it was first introduced in 2006) is also a nice camera, but for just a little more ($469.95 vs. $509.00) you get second generation technology with a nice big 3" LCD screen and VR lens.
One of the main reasons I prefer the Nikon's over the Canon's and Sony's is that they have a separate auto focus assist lamp built into the body (on all models) whereas the Canon and Sony use their flash to perform this function. In certain situations, using the flash as a AF assist lamp can interfere with your shot. I am surprised that Canon and Sony still use flash for AF assist on their lower end models because on their upper end models they have separate AF assist lamps.
If want the cheapest decent beginners DSLR, then it would be the Sony A230 with 18-55mm lens for $399.00 with free shipping (last link below).
I would get the Nikon D3000 kit with 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G AF-S DX VR Nikkor Zoom Lens is probably the best value and the most bang for the buck DSLR from Nikon or in fact any other manufacturer. The D3000 is a easy camera for a beginner to learn and use (has a nice guide feature), not to mention it just came out on the market so it will hold its resale value pretty well. Also, the D3000 kit lens has (VR) vibration reduction technology, thus making the D3000 an even better value. Take a look at the first link below for a great review of this camera and take a look at the second link for the best price ($509.00 with free shipping) I could find for the D3000 with 18-55mm VR lens.
The Nikon D40 which is better than the D60 or D40x, (in the process of being discontinued because it was first introduced in 2006) is also a nice camera, but for just a little more ($469.95 vs. $509.00) you get second generation technology with a nice big 3" LCD screen and VR lens.
One of the main reasons I prefer the Nikon's over the Canon's and Sony's is that they have a separate auto focus assist lamp built into the body (on all models) whereas the Canon and Sony use their flash to perform this function. In certain situations, using the flash as a AF assist lamp can interfere with your shot. I am surprised that Canon and Sony still use flash for AF assist on their lower end models because on their upper end models they have separate AF assist lamps.
If want the cheapest decent beginners DSLR, then it would be the Sony A230 with 18-55mm lens for $399.00 with free shipping (last link below).
WHat equipment should i get next with my nikon d40?
filspike69
I recently bough the nikon d40 and im really having fun with it. but i wish to buy more equipment. are there any recommendations equipment out there like a must have for any slr user...? I have 18-55mm and 55-200mm VR lense. Also any good lense that can take pictures at night. I dont like the pop up flash..it makes indoor pics bright. thanks
Answer
1) Buy a quality UV filter for both lenses. Keep it on the lens unless you are using a polarizer filter. I Have lenses that are 35 years old and their front elements are still perfect because they've been protected by a filter. Its also much cheaper to replace a filter than a lens.
2) Buy a quality circular polarizer. The polarizer can be used to darken a blue sky and remove reflections/glare from glass, water, sand, snow and painted metal - but not polished metal. A polarizer will also enhance colors.
Choose your filters from B+W, Hoya, Singh-Ray, Tiffen, Heliopan. Don't be tempted to buy some cheap no-name filters. Always remember: "Quality doesn't cost, it pays."
If your lenses didn't come with lens hoods then buy the ones made for your lenses. A lens hood helps prevent glare from extraneous light sources, especially outdoors, and offers even more protection for your lens.
3) Buy a tripod. Choose from Velbon, Benro, Manfrotto, Gitzo, Gittos, Slik. This purchase would be best made at a real camera store so you can try them out. Buy the one that fits you - if you're 6 feet tall and the tripod only extends to 4 feet you won't use it very much. I always advise against extending the center column of a tripod more than a few inches. Again, don't be tempted by some cheap no-name tripod.
4) Buy a good lens cleaning cloth. In 37 years I have never used a liquid lens cleaner. If a filter has a stubborn smudge just breathe on it and the cloth will remove it.
For available light non-flash photography buy the AF-S Nikkor 50mm f1.4G lens. At 2/3 of a stop faster than an f1.8, the f1.4 will give you a brighter viewfinder, making composition and focusing easier in low-light.
However, don't expect miracles. Lighting indoors always appears brighter to the human eye than it does to the camera. In a room with average light and using ISO 400 you may be shooting at 1/60 sec. at f1.4 - not good for stopping any subject movement. At ISO 800 you'll be at 1/125 sec. at f1.4.
I also use and recommend the FotoSharp "Day & Night Exposure Guide". This really takes the guesswork out of taking night pictures by available light. Want to take pictures of outdoor Christmas lights? ISO 100, f8 @ 4 sec. or f11 @ 15 sec. How about a city skyline in the distance - maybe across a river or lake? ISO 100, f8 @ 30 sec. or f11 @ 1 min.
The book "Understanding Exposure: How To take Great Photos With A Film or Digital Camera" by Bryan Peterson will also be useful.
Later, if you'd like to start using a flash indoors, you can consider adding the Nikon SB-600AF Speedlight and the Nikon SK-6 Power Bracket. This combination will give you the most versatility and allows you to easily use bounce flash in horizontal or vertical compositions.
****** EDIT!! ******
I must strongly disagree with Chip about the tripod. On a sunny day shooting a landscape I use a tripod. Of course, I'm using ISO 100 and a 21mm lens @ f16. Although the venerable "Sunny 16 Rule" tells me I could shoot at 1/100 sec. hand-held, since I also use a polarizer filter and lose approx. 2 stops the tripod is the best way to get sharp, crisp pictures. (Losing 2 stops is equivalent to using f32 which would require a 1/25 sec. shutter speed). The more you use a tripod the better your pictures will be.
1) Buy a quality UV filter for both lenses. Keep it on the lens unless you are using a polarizer filter. I Have lenses that are 35 years old and their front elements are still perfect because they've been protected by a filter. Its also much cheaper to replace a filter than a lens.
2) Buy a quality circular polarizer. The polarizer can be used to darken a blue sky and remove reflections/glare from glass, water, sand, snow and painted metal - but not polished metal. A polarizer will also enhance colors.
Choose your filters from B+W, Hoya, Singh-Ray, Tiffen, Heliopan. Don't be tempted to buy some cheap no-name filters. Always remember: "Quality doesn't cost, it pays."
If your lenses didn't come with lens hoods then buy the ones made for your lenses. A lens hood helps prevent glare from extraneous light sources, especially outdoors, and offers even more protection for your lens.
3) Buy a tripod. Choose from Velbon, Benro, Manfrotto, Gitzo, Gittos, Slik. This purchase would be best made at a real camera store so you can try them out. Buy the one that fits you - if you're 6 feet tall and the tripod only extends to 4 feet you won't use it very much. I always advise against extending the center column of a tripod more than a few inches. Again, don't be tempted by some cheap no-name tripod.
4) Buy a good lens cleaning cloth. In 37 years I have never used a liquid lens cleaner. If a filter has a stubborn smudge just breathe on it and the cloth will remove it.
For available light non-flash photography buy the AF-S Nikkor 50mm f1.4G lens. At 2/3 of a stop faster than an f1.8, the f1.4 will give you a brighter viewfinder, making composition and focusing easier in low-light.
However, don't expect miracles. Lighting indoors always appears brighter to the human eye than it does to the camera. In a room with average light and using ISO 400 you may be shooting at 1/60 sec. at f1.4 - not good for stopping any subject movement. At ISO 800 you'll be at 1/125 sec. at f1.4.
I also use and recommend the FotoSharp "Day & Night Exposure Guide". This really takes the guesswork out of taking night pictures by available light. Want to take pictures of outdoor Christmas lights? ISO 100, f8 @ 4 sec. or f11 @ 15 sec. How about a city skyline in the distance - maybe across a river or lake? ISO 100, f8 @ 30 sec. or f11 @ 1 min.
The book "Understanding Exposure: How To take Great Photos With A Film or Digital Camera" by Bryan Peterson will also be useful.
Later, if you'd like to start using a flash indoors, you can consider adding the Nikon SB-600AF Speedlight and the Nikon SK-6 Power Bracket. This combination will give you the most versatility and allows you to easily use bounce flash in horizontal or vertical compositions.
****** EDIT!! ******
I must strongly disagree with Chip about the tripod. On a sunny day shooting a landscape I use a tripod. Of course, I'm using ISO 100 and a 21mm lens @ f16. Although the venerable "Sunny 16 Rule" tells me I could shoot at 1/100 sec. hand-held, since I also use a polarizer filter and lose approx. 2 stops the tripod is the best way to get sharp, crisp pictures. (Losing 2 stops is equivalent to using f32 which would require a 1/25 sec. shutter speed). The more you use a tripod the better your pictures will be.
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