Im starting photography for a hobby and I want a Nikon but I don't know which film slr one is best. Could you also put the best lense to get with that camera? I'll probably just be shooting landscapes and portraits. Thanks (:
Answer
Sophie, there is no "best" camera in general, only what works for you. If you are just starting out and prefer Nikon, I highly recommend one of the following. Each of the cameras listed below is fairly inexpensive but high quality and fully manual, which is what you want to be on when learning. You could get a camera with auto features and interchangeable finders or other things you don't need but odds are, you will end up getting distracted and confused by these additional items.
Nikkormat FTn (1967) --If you enjoy the haptics of older cameras, the FTn is a nice choice. It's cheap, less than $100 and very very durable. It takes a little extra effort to mount the lens and the light meter only goes to 1600 ISO but it's a very capable camera.
Nikkormat FT2 (1970's)--The FT2 adds a few refinements to the FTn, the most important being a split screen viewfinder that is used with faster lenses and aids in focusing in lower light or with a very shallow depth of field. These go for less than $100 usually also.
Nikon FM (1977)--Get this if you want something which can change lenses faster and is a little bit lighter weight and more compact. The meter goes up to 3200 ISO, the viewfinder is brighter and it's a bit more of a "normal" slr. You can also attach more accessories such as a motordrive. $150 or so is a good price on them.
Nikon FM2 (1980's)--This is a nice upgrade to the FM and probably the most refined all manual 35mm slr Nikon ever made aside from the professional models. The ISO goes to 6400 and shutter to 4000. The view screen is interchangeable and very very bright. This is an incredibly flexible camera and is perfect for shooting fast action or in very low light with no flash. It's totally unnecessary though if you shoot normally moving subjects in normal light. These go for around $200 on the low end but can get up to as much as $400.
I am suggesting older Nikon 35mm cameras because these were all made in the golden years of 35mm SLR's and are pretty legendary student and serious amatuer cameras. There are more modern cameras but if you want the full classic film experience, these are the cameras to do it with, in my opinion.
I suggest buying from KEH.com or Adorama.com, or a local camera store, NOT eBay, where you can very easily pay too much for a broken camera.
As for portraits and landscapes, 35mm is not really the ideal format for landscapes, you should be shooting medium format or bigger in order to get a lot of resolution and depth of field. If you're prefer 35mm for whatever reasons, it will be okay though. The cameras listed above are all extremely rugged, partly because they don't have any unnecessary auto features. This will make them stand up well in very high and low temperatures for doing landscape work.
Portraits is a matter of lenses more than the camera, although smaller, less intimidating cameras can be useful for helping people feel comfortable. This is another good reason to go with one of the cameras I suggest as oppose to something larger like an F3 or higher. Portrait lenses range from 50mm to around 135mm. The conventional portrait lens is 85mm to 105mm. Landscapes can be shot with the 50mm lens. Prime lenses, teach discipline, are cheaper, faster and usually higher quality than zoom lenses. Zoom lenses also make learning what shutter speeds are correct to use with each lens as well as predicting depth of field more complicated than they need to be. Non-zoom lenses are the best to learn on, hands down.
I would recommend the Nikkor 50mm 1.4 or 1.8, 85mm 1.4, 1.8 or f2 and the 105mm f2.5 or 1.8. If you want a longer lens that is a pretty cheap but compact and good to have in your kit, the 135mm 2.8 is nice.
Whatever lenses you choose, a 50mm is essential to all camera outfits. If you only buy one lens for now, it should be a 50mm. They are easy to learn with because they provide a "normal" field of view, they are cheap and they can have much wider aperture ranges than most other lenses.
Nikkormats can use earlier Non-AI lenses. The FM series cameras are best used with AI lenses. Research the cameras and you will learn about the differences in these types of lenses.
Feel free to write me any time for further explanation or help with anything else involving 35mm cameras. I'd love to help you get going! Good luck!
JohnnyMartyr@Hotmail.com
Sophie, there is no "best" camera in general, only what works for you. If you are just starting out and prefer Nikon, I highly recommend one of the following. Each of the cameras listed below is fairly inexpensive but high quality and fully manual, which is what you want to be on when learning. You could get a camera with auto features and interchangeable finders or other things you don't need but odds are, you will end up getting distracted and confused by these additional items.
Nikkormat FTn (1967) --If you enjoy the haptics of older cameras, the FTn is a nice choice. It's cheap, less than $100 and very very durable. It takes a little extra effort to mount the lens and the light meter only goes to 1600 ISO but it's a very capable camera.
Nikkormat FT2 (1970's)--The FT2 adds a few refinements to the FTn, the most important being a split screen viewfinder that is used with faster lenses and aids in focusing in lower light or with a very shallow depth of field. These go for less than $100 usually also.
Nikon FM (1977)--Get this if you want something which can change lenses faster and is a little bit lighter weight and more compact. The meter goes up to 3200 ISO, the viewfinder is brighter and it's a bit more of a "normal" slr. You can also attach more accessories such as a motordrive. $150 or so is a good price on them.
Nikon FM2 (1980's)--This is a nice upgrade to the FM and probably the most refined all manual 35mm slr Nikon ever made aside from the professional models. The ISO goes to 6400 and shutter to 4000. The view screen is interchangeable and very very bright. This is an incredibly flexible camera and is perfect for shooting fast action or in very low light with no flash. It's totally unnecessary though if you shoot normally moving subjects in normal light. These go for around $200 on the low end but can get up to as much as $400.
I am suggesting older Nikon 35mm cameras because these were all made in the golden years of 35mm SLR's and are pretty legendary student and serious amatuer cameras. There are more modern cameras but if you want the full classic film experience, these are the cameras to do it with, in my opinion.
I suggest buying from KEH.com or Adorama.com, or a local camera store, NOT eBay, where you can very easily pay too much for a broken camera.
As for portraits and landscapes, 35mm is not really the ideal format for landscapes, you should be shooting medium format or bigger in order to get a lot of resolution and depth of field. If you're prefer 35mm for whatever reasons, it will be okay though. The cameras listed above are all extremely rugged, partly because they don't have any unnecessary auto features. This will make them stand up well in very high and low temperatures for doing landscape work.
Portraits is a matter of lenses more than the camera, although smaller, less intimidating cameras can be useful for helping people feel comfortable. This is another good reason to go with one of the cameras I suggest as oppose to something larger like an F3 or higher. Portrait lenses range from 50mm to around 135mm. The conventional portrait lens is 85mm to 105mm. Landscapes can be shot with the 50mm lens. Prime lenses, teach discipline, are cheaper, faster and usually higher quality than zoom lenses. Zoom lenses also make learning what shutter speeds are correct to use with each lens as well as predicting depth of field more complicated than they need to be. Non-zoom lenses are the best to learn on, hands down.
I would recommend the Nikkor 50mm 1.4 or 1.8, 85mm 1.4, 1.8 or f2 and the 105mm f2.5 or 1.8. If you want a longer lens that is a pretty cheap but compact and good to have in your kit, the 135mm 2.8 is nice.
Whatever lenses you choose, a 50mm is essential to all camera outfits. If you only buy one lens for now, it should be a 50mm. They are easy to learn with because they provide a "normal" field of view, they are cheap and they can have much wider aperture ranges than most other lenses.
Nikkormats can use earlier Non-AI lenses. The FM series cameras are best used with AI lenses. Research the cameras and you will learn about the differences in these types of lenses.
Feel free to write me any time for further explanation or help with anything else involving 35mm cameras. I'd love to help you get going! Good luck!
JohnnyMartyr@Hotmail.com
Nikon Camera HELP !!?
Eveelyyn
okay so , i bought this nikon s210 camera, in december, dont know the exact date but it broke, the lense thing came off. and, when i put the turn on button it says lens error and it doesnt open therefore no image. And I want to send it to the company theres a one year warranty, but how should i send it , do you think theyll give me a new one.
Answer
First off, the best place to take it for repairs is the place where you bought it. Hopefully, you kept the receipt as proof of when it was purchased, and that it was bought legally (i.e. not stolen or "gray market"). The vendor should be able to send it back for repair, or at least give you an address to send it to.
As to what Nikon will do, that depends on what happened. If the camera looks like it has been abused (lots of scratches, footprints on the lens), then they might well say that this kind of usage is not covered by the warranty. But if a part failed, and especially if they have seen this part fail on lots of other cameras, then they should fix it.
First off, the best place to take it for repairs is the place where you bought it. Hopefully, you kept the receipt as proof of when it was purchased, and that it was bought legally (i.e. not stolen or "gray market"). The vendor should be able to send it back for repair, or at least give you an address to send it to.
As to what Nikon will do, that depends on what happened. If the camera looks like it has been abused (lots of scratches, footprints on the lens), then they might well say that this kind of usage is not covered by the warranty. But if a part failed, and especially if they have seen this part fail on lots of other cameras, then they should fix it.
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