canon dslr prime lens image
???????
I own a Canon 60D DSLR camera and I need to take photos for an upcoming school dance. I would like these photos to cone out as best as possible, but because of the situation, I need tips on how to set up the settings in my camera for the best results.
The dance is very active, and there many moving figures around multicolored/flashing lights in a dark environment.
What settings would help me get the pictures clear, crisp, and not blurry? How would I get the photos to come out with
Answer
First, forget about using your camera's built-in flash except for pictures of individuals or small groups and if you do use it in those situations you'll need to diffuse the flash.
Second, if you can afford either the Canon EF 28mm f1.8 or EF 35mm f2.0 then buy the one you like best after trying them at your local camera store. If you can't afford to buy a new lens then ask if you can rent one. Trying to use the slow, variable aperture zoom lens that came with your camera is going to require a very high ISO so a faster prime lens like the 28mm or 35mm will allow a lower ISO which means reduced digital noise and better image quality. You'll still need a high ISO such as 1600 even with an f1.8 or f2.0 prime lens to achieve a shutter speed fast enough to prevent blur caused by subject motion or camera movement. Since the lenses I'm suggesting are prime lenses with no zoom you'll have to "zoom" with your feet - take a few steps closer to get less in the scene, take a few steps back to get more in the scene. That's how we "zoomed" before zoom lenses were invented.
Third, use your camera's Spot metering setting so the camera's meter isn't trying to calculate exposure for the entire scene. Here are a couple of articles on using spot metering:
http://spotmetering.com/spwhy.htm
http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2012/05/28/when-to-use-spot-metering
The idea is to meter only your subject(s) and let the background go dark.
As I said earlier, if you decide to use your camera's built-in flash in some situations it will need to be diffused. You can use a piece of tissue or thin white cloth or the "Puffer" from Gary Fong.
http://www.garyfongestore.com/featured-products/puffer-pop-up-flash-diffuser.html Using the flash without some sort of diffusion results in harsh lighting which is not very flattering.
From this review it appears that your camera does fairly well at high ISO values but I still recommend one of the 2 fast prime lenses previously referenced.
http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/E60D/E60DA.HTM
Good luck and hope you share some of your results.
First, forget about using your camera's built-in flash except for pictures of individuals or small groups and if you do use it in those situations you'll need to diffuse the flash.
Second, if you can afford either the Canon EF 28mm f1.8 or EF 35mm f2.0 then buy the one you like best after trying them at your local camera store. If you can't afford to buy a new lens then ask if you can rent one. Trying to use the slow, variable aperture zoom lens that came with your camera is going to require a very high ISO so a faster prime lens like the 28mm or 35mm will allow a lower ISO which means reduced digital noise and better image quality. You'll still need a high ISO such as 1600 even with an f1.8 or f2.0 prime lens to achieve a shutter speed fast enough to prevent blur caused by subject motion or camera movement. Since the lenses I'm suggesting are prime lenses with no zoom you'll have to "zoom" with your feet - take a few steps closer to get less in the scene, take a few steps back to get more in the scene. That's how we "zoomed" before zoom lenses were invented.
Third, use your camera's Spot metering setting so the camera's meter isn't trying to calculate exposure for the entire scene. Here are a couple of articles on using spot metering:
http://spotmetering.com/spwhy.htm
http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2012/05/28/when-to-use-spot-metering
The idea is to meter only your subject(s) and let the background go dark.
As I said earlier, if you decide to use your camera's built-in flash in some situations it will need to be diffused. You can use a piece of tissue or thin white cloth or the "Puffer" from Gary Fong.
http://www.garyfongestore.com/featured-products/puffer-pop-up-flash-diffuser.html Using the flash without some sort of diffusion results in harsh lighting which is not very flattering.
From this review it appears that your camera does fairly well at high ISO values but I still recommend one of the 2 fast prime lenses previously referenced.
http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/E60D/E60DA.HTM
Good luck and hope you share some of your results.
What is the best canon dslr i should purchase next?
Mertle
I'm a 17 year old deciding if a future of photography is best for me and have used the past year to get the experience with a canon eos rebel XT i purchased second hand for a start. Although the camera has no problems besides not as fast of shutter speed as id like, I'm stuck on whether or not i should purchase a better canon or stick with the model i have? I have also purchased a 55-250 lens and i already had the original 55 kit lens. My main subjects typically are portraits and weddings and with scheduled senior pictures and 2 weddings coming up for pay I'm confused on whether or not i should purchase a higher functioning camera or maybe just more lenses and accessories? I will be purchasing this camera second hand as well if i do buy a new(to me) one so since I'm buying entirely myself i would like to stay in a price range of $500 or below on cameras running around that range on ebay and craigslist. Thanks for the help in advance :)
Might i add this is totally unprofessional gigs done by me. Yes there will be small pay but everyone understands that I'm a beginner with no other education other than what i have taught myself and that is a perfect factor for everyone involved since they are just looking for cheaper options and decent quality pictures still being done. I recently shot at a wedding and the pictures turned out fantastic but was just asking for advice on whether or not i should waste money purchasing a newer camera at such a young age or continue with the model i own. Nothing fancy just small local mutual friends and such asking for my assistance in capturing memories for them. I completely understand along with everyone involved that I am not professional therefore that's not even a factor of complaint. My pictures are at the moment amateur with potential and with people seeing that quality they have asked me personally to do these pictures for them. hope this helps clear things up.
Answer
If you're not sure about these things, I'd be very careful shooting a wedding and asking for money for it unless the couple specifically asked you and offered to pay. If they ask you to sign a contract, then think very hard because if you screw up the wedding they could sue. Even if they don't, you run the risk of their memories of such a day being blurred, wrongly coloured or badly composed. Weddings don't give you second chances, by and large.
Reading your question comes across rather like someone who doesn't know how to change the oil on a car charging people for driving lessons. You've been learning for one year? Would you entrust your wedding photos to someone who has been shooting for one year and doesn't really know how good their own equipment is?
Real wedding photographers who shoot Canon generally use significantly higher grade models than a rebel. These days I would guess that most of them are shooting 5D Mark 3s, probably two of them. One with a 24-70 and one with a moderate or long tele...and with high quality flashes on both. That's already a lot of money. Certainly a lot more than 500 dollars. Nearer to 5000, and probably more than that.
To be blunt, you don't sound like you're ready to be trying a wedding. A skilled photographer could shoot a wedding with a rebel and a 55-250, but they would know the camera inside out and back to front.
This sounds like I'm being mean, and maybe I am. But I wouldn't want you to see what happens when such a big occasion goes to pot because the photographer wasn't up to scratch. You could get yourself a 1DX with the best glass Canon can make and it won't make a difference if you haven't got the vision yet.
Google "bad wedding photos" and look what people do in the name of photography. If you think you can do better, then absolutely go for it. But know where you are as a photographer and where you want to be. Then google "good wedding photos" and ask yourself if you could do that. If you really, really believe that you can, then go for it, but from your question it sounds like you still have a lot to learn.
Edit: now I've read your additional details, then by all means go for it. Most modern cameras are good enough to do most things. If anything, you might want to look closely at lenses, rather than cameras. If the wedding's going to be in a church then you might have trouble with the light; a 55-250 lens has a 4.0-5.6 range, which means that you're going to have trouble shooting when there isn't much light available unless you jack up the ISO so high that your pictures get too noisy. I would look at fast prime lenses like a 50mm 1.8 or 1.4, or an 85mm 1.8. (If you happen to win the lottery tomorrow, then get the 50mm 1.2 and the 85mm 1.2)
Faster lenses like these will make it much easier for you if you're in a dark environment.
Hope I didn't come across as too aggressive in the original post: now that you've explained how things are, then I hope you can make a good go of the weddings and portraits.
If you're not sure about these things, I'd be very careful shooting a wedding and asking for money for it unless the couple specifically asked you and offered to pay. If they ask you to sign a contract, then think very hard because if you screw up the wedding they could sue. Even if they don't, you run the risk of their memories of such a day being blurred, wrongly coloured or badly composed. Weddings don't give you second chances, by and large.
Reading your question comes across rather like someone who doesn't know how to change the oil on a car charging people for driving lessons. You've been learning for one year? Would you entrust your wedding photos to someone who has been shooting for one year and doesn't really know how good their own equipment is?
Real wedding photographers who shoot Canon generally use significantly higher grade models than a rebel. These days I would guess that most of them are shooting 5D Mark 3s, probably two of them. One with a 24-70 and one with a moderate or long tele...and with high quality flashes on both. That's already a lot of money. Certainly a lot more than 500 dollars. Nearer to 5000, and probably more than that.
To be blunt, you don't sound like you're ready to be trying a wedding. A skilled photographer could shoot a wedding with a rebel and a 55-250, but they would know the camera inside out and back to front.
This sounds like I'm being mean, and maybe I am. But I wouldn't want you to see what happens when such a big occasion goes to pot because the photographer wasn't up to scratch. You could get yourself a 1DX with the best glass Canon can make and it won't make a difference if you haven't got the vision yet.
Google "bad wedding photos" and look what people do in the name of photography. If you think you can do better, then absolutely go for it. But know where you are as a photographer and where you want to be. Then google "good wedding photos" and ask yourself if you could do that. If you really, really believe that you can, then go for it, but from your question it sounds like you still have a lot to learn.
Edit: now I've read your additional details, then by all means go for it. Most modern cameras are good enough to do most things. If anything, you might want to look closely at lenses, rather than cameras. If the wedding's going to be in a church then you might have trouble with the light; a 55-250 lens has a 4.0-5.6 range, which means that you're going to have trouble shooting when there isn't much light available unless you jack up the ISO so high that your pictures get too noisy. I would look at fast prime lenses like a 50mm 1.8 or 1.4, or an 85mm 1.8. (If you happen to win the lottery tomorrow, then get the 50mm 1.2 and the 85mm 1.2)
Faster lenses like these will make it much easier for you if you're in a dark environment.
Hope I didn't come across as too aggressive in the original post: now that you've explained how things are, then I hope you can make a good go of the weddings and portraits.
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